“Biking cum Hiking Trip - 2.0”

Barely a fortnight after the “Mission Mana” trip (25 to 27 Oct 2022) the ‘tripping’ bug bit us again with an added participant in yet another crazy adventure. On 12 Nov 2022, myself, Cmde Ravi Nautiyal and Capt (IN) Anoop Chauhan started off from ISBT Dehradun at 0630 hrs with the intent to reach Badrinath, 350 kms away, before last light. It was Ravi’s idea to trek to Neelkanth Base Camp which is 10 kms from Badrinath at an altitude of 16330 ft on 13 Nov, when the weather was supposed to be clear. The trail starts from Badrinath temple so we had decided to stay the night at a hotel in Badrinath, a decision we were to rue later. The logic behind this choice was to save some time before and after the trek as Mana (where Army accommodation was available) is 4 km away from Badrinath and we wanted to proceed to Joshimath immediately after the trek so that travel time back to Dehradun on 14^th Nov would be reduced by a couple of hours. Another reason was the unknown state of the road between Badrinath and Joshimath during morning hours owing to the freezing night temperature in and around Badrinath (numerous water crossings en-route would be frozen and riding bikes would be hazardous).

With packed breakfast in our saddlebags we started off at the appointed hour and with small halts for breakfast (at Devprayag) and late lunch (at Joshimath), reached Badrinath exactly at 1700 hrs as dusk was just setting in. Everyone was saddle sore owing to the 10 hour ride (not counting the halts) over bad hilly roads. Since Anoop had not been to Mana during a previous trip to Badrinath and we had also missed a photo-op during our earlier jaunt, we proceeded to the entry gate at Mana for that purpose. Having clicked some pics and selfies we rode back to Badrinath and started the hunt for ‘Hotel Decent’ where Ravi had booked a room online for our night halt. The so called hotel was located in a cramped up bylane near the main bazaar of Badrinath which is very close to the temple. The temperature was minus 4 degrees at 1800 hrs and it was our luck to have been allotted a triple sharing room on the top floor. Accommodation was scarce owing to the last minute rush of tourists and pilgrims as the temple was closing for winters on 19 Nov 2022. After dumping our baggage in the room we went for a stroll in the market and also visited the temple which was overcrowded. Even the freezing cold had no effect on the revelers and one had to jostle for space. On the return trip we stopped at a makeshift ‘café’ which was offering hot milk and jalebis - an incredible sight in this remote corner of Uttarakhand ! This was yet another ‘unfinished agenda’ from our previous trip which was duly completed. Dinner was skipped as a result of this indulgence.

The worst experience of the trip so far was about to begin. Hotel ‘Decent’ had no heating arrangements. The attached bathroom had a water heater with the hot water tap leaking. The WC cover was hanging on one support and the cistern was also leaking. The icing on the cake was that there was no false ceiling and water droplets were falling from the CGI sheet on top owing to condensation. They had provided a flea-bitten quilt and a blanket each for all the three beds. By 2000 hrs we started to shiver and decided to wear layers of clothing including socks, caps and gloves and go to bed despite our reluctance to use the soiled bed linen. The night was spent in tossing and turning and sleeping in snatches even though we were tired after the day’s ride. The temperature at midnight was minus 6 degrees Celsius and we just could not get warm enough. Decent Hotel charged us an ‘indecent’ tariff of 4000 bucks for one night’s stay with super ‘indecent’ amenities. Getting through the ‘morning routine’ was another nightmare which I will not dwell upon as that is another story.

At 0800 hrs we had a cup of tea at one of the café which was open and started the trek to “Charan Paduka” which is 3 km uphill from Badrinath. The serpentine trail starts from an area behind the Badrinath temple and is ‘pucca’ with paved stretches and steps leading to the first shrine ‘charan paduka’ which is a rock believed to have imprints of Lord Vishnu’s feet. A lot of devotees flock to this place after visiting the Badrinath temple as Lord Vishnu is supposed to have placed his feet here when he visited earth. A sight of the shrine is said to cure one’s ailments. We reached this rocky shrine at 0920 hrs and started clicking some pics but were promptly ‘shooed’ away by the priest for not removing our shoes. Begging forgiveness for this ‘sacrilege’ we started our onward journey after having some snacks. Neelkanth base camp from this spot is another 7 km of uphill trek. The going got tougher as we started climbing higher owing to the altitude and the condition of the track. We started having frequent breaks to catch our breath to obviate the high altitude effects and eventually reached the base camp at 1145 hrs. The base camp is at an altitude of 16300 ft above sea level and offers a breath taking view of the majestic Neelkanth peak (21300 ft). Neelkanth peak is also called the ‘Gharwal Queen’ and has great mythological value as it is believed to be an ‘avatar’ of Lord Shiva. We had some snacks and shot some beautiful pictures of the mountain and the area around. The scenery around the base camp was surreal and we were lucky to have reached this sacred place on a bright sunny day. The air was chilly and we started our descent towards Badrinath at noon.

The trek towards Badrinath was uneventful and we reached our hotel at 1500 hrs. After a quick ‘rig changing’ exercise we hopped on to our bikes and left for Joshimath. We reached Joshimath at 1630 hrs and checked into the Fd Wksp Guest House where we had independent rooms booked (thanks to Anoop and his connections) with attached washrooms, heating arrangements, clean linen et all. The first proper bath of the trip ensued followed by a sumptuous vegetarian (by choice) meal and we hit the sack early. With proper heating arrangements, clean duvets and blankets, all of us slept early so that we could leave for Dehradun the following day at 0700 hrs.

The ride to Dehradun on 14 Nov was enjoyable as there was less traffic on the road and other than the damaged portions of the road there was nothing to worry about. The sky was overcast and we encountered light rain at a couple of places but managed to scoot away before we could get wet. We stopped for brunch at Gauchar at Arjuna Hotel and Restaurant which is run by Capt Surendra Singh Kanwasi, who is an Arjuna Awardee (year 2001). One must stop at this place for delicious stuffed parathas besides a variety of other mouth-watering dishes on the menu. With a short stop for tea at Kaudiyala and refueling at Rishikesh, I reached home at 1700 hrs.

This was yet another adventure to remember where we pushed the boundaries as regards testing our endurance and physical fitness for riding long hours and trekking 20 kms in high altitude without any preparation. It seems we pushed our luck too as it rained at Joshimath on 14 Nov and Badrinath experienced fresh snowfall after 09 & 10 Nov when we were apprehensive about the weather prior to our onward journey. Some pics of the trip are as follows:

                                        Start of the ride from ISBT Dehradun on 12 Nov 2022

                                            Reached Entry Point to village Mana at 1700 hrs

                                      Pictured near Mana with new Ralco tyres on my bike

All covered up owing to -6 degrees temp at Badrinath. The temple can be seen in the background.

                                                        Badrinath temple up close

                                      Mt Neelkanth pictured from our hotel at sunrise

                                                            Sunrise over Mt Neelkanth

                                            Waiting for tea prior to the trek on 13 Nov 2022.

                                View of Badrinath town from the trail leading to Charan Paduka.

                                         Ravi and Anoop taking a breather on the uphill climb.

                                             A dilapidated waiting point for travelers enroute.

                                              Mt Neelkanth getting closer as we climbed up.

                       Water seepage from pipes frozen into various shapes on the way up.

                                               Neelkanth 7 kms sign (at Charan Paduka)

                     Sign proclaiming 'Narayana's "HOLLY " Foot - Charan Paduka cave

                                                        Footprints on the rock near the cave

                                       Taking a short break before the last stretch of climb.

                                            Ditto for Anoop while Ravi is busy clicking pics.

                      One of many 'Cairns' which we encountered enroute. These are made by                                                         travelers to indicate the correct route or trail lest one loses his way. 

     The guest house at Joshimath was luxury personified compared to our diggings at Badrinath !

          This reminded me of my dear friend Jogi (never knew there was a waterfall named after him)

                                          The weary traveler returns to home and hearth !

                  Pictured with Capt Surendra Singh Kanwasi at his restuarant in Gauchar.

                                                       Neelkanth base camp at last !

                                Enjoying hot jalebis and milk in sub-zero climes at Badrinath.

                  Raring to go - at a short distance from Badrinath when the going was good.

                                   High altitude 'Holly' with remnants of snow still visible.

                                                 Prior to the temple visit on 12 Nov evening.

                                            The descent after the trek was relatively easier !

                                                          Sunrise over Mt Neelkanth.