Preparations for Ladakh Bike Trip - Must Have Gear

Must Have Gear

1. Riding Jacket. This is a 3 layer protective jacket consisting of the following:

(a)   Outer layer of mesh with protective padding (CE Rated) on shoulders, elbows and back.

(b)   Inner winter liner.

(c)   Inner rain liner.

These jackets are available in bike gear stores as well as online. The cost ranges from Rs 5K to 10K   depending on the brand. It is better to buy these from physical stores so that a perfectly fitting jacket can be purchased. These should be snug and comfortably fitting so that the armor padding does not shift in case of a fall. Loose fitting jackets should be avoided. These jackets are also available with Royal Enfield branding at their showrooms.

2. Riding Pants.  Like the jacket these are also layered with protective padding. The jackets have a provision to fit the pant on to them with a zipper. In case riding pants are not preferred (like me) then a pair of loose fitting jeans with underpants/thermals will do with an external knee pad. The cost of riding pants is in the same range as jackets.

3. Riding Boots. These are long safety boots which are waterproof but take some getting used to. Cost ranges from Rs 4000 onwards. What is imperative is that the boots should cover the ankle fully and protect it from getting twisted. Alternatively, ankle length boots (CAT or Woodland) can also be worn with a waterproof “shoerella” covering (available online at less than a thousand bucks). Royal Enfield also has riding boots in their showrooms.

4. Full Face Helmet. A good helmet (ISI certified) is a must have. The range is from Rs 1000 to Rs 25 K or even more. Steelbird or Studds helmets in the range of Rs 2500 to Rs 3500 are good enough. These are also available in CSD. The important thing to note here is that the helmet should be snug and comfortable. A tight helmet can be a source of constant ‘pain in the head’! The helmet which Royal Enfield provides free with the bike is not suitable for high altitude biking.

5. Riding Gloves. These are a must to protect against abrasions/wounds in case of a fall as well as some protection from the weather too. Cost varies from Rs 500/- to Rs 1000/-.

6. Cotton Balaclava. This is a snug fitting light balaclava which can be worn under the helmet. It’s purpose is to keep the head & face warm, keep unruly hair (if any on the pate) in place and keep the ears from flapping around. Sometimes the ears get pressed under the helmet which again is a pain in the…! These are available for a couple of hundred rupees. Can be bought online as they are of free size.

7. Knee Pads. These are required in case riding pants are not preferred. They usually come in a set with elbow pads and cost Rs 1200/- to Rs 2000/-

 

Bike Mods & Accessories

1.  Bike Mods :

    (a)  Back Rest and Luggage Tray/Rack. Back rest is already available on some bikes otherwise a combo can be   

    fitted for Rs 1500/- to Rs 2000/-

    (b) Sump Guard/Bash Plate. A must for newer model bikes to protect the undercarriage from flying  pebbles

    or foreign objects. This costs around Rs 1500/-.

    (c) Crash Guard/Leg Guard. To protect the legs and engine in case of a fall. Costs around Rs 2000/-.

    (d) Saddle Stays. The Saree guard which is fitted on the bike as per MV Rules can be removed and a pair of

    saddle stays should be fitted so that it becomes easier to secure saddle bags/luggage on the bike. These

    stays will prevent any part of the baggage to touch the rear wheel. The cost of saddle stays ranges from Rs

    1500/- to Rs 3000/- depending on the brand/type. These can be ordered online too.

2. Accessories :

    (a)  Saddle Bags/Luggage Bags. These are soft luggage bags of varying sizes which are suitable for particular

    models of bikes. The cost varies for Rs 3000/- to Rs 6000/-. These come with water proof rain covers. The

    other option is to fix two identical bags on either side and cover them up with waterproof plastic sheets.

    (b) Bungee Cords. (Also known as elastic nylon luggage straps) These are the best way to secure any luggage

    to the bike. They cost around Rs 100/- to 200/- for a pair. Recommended to have at least 4 such cords which

    may come in handy during the ride.

    (c) Tank Bag. This can be fixed to the fuel tank either with magnets or straps for those who prefer to have  

    knick-knacks readily available at hand. This will also take some getting used to. These cost Rs 2000/- or so.

    (d) Cell Phone Holder. Again an item of personal preference which can be fitted on the handle bar. The Cell

     Phone can be fixed to this and used easily (particularly for navigation for bikes which do not have this

    feature). This can cost anything between Rs 300/- to Rs 1000/- depending on build quality.

    (e) Plastic Can for Petrol. Two 5 litre cans are recommended per bike.

    (f) Water bottle

Personal Clothing Etc

1. Winter Jacket/Parka/Windbreaker. In addition to the riding jacket it is advisable to carry a light weight fleece lined or layered jacket which may be used when the riding jacket is not being worn. This should not be very bulky (like the regulation Parka jacket). Woodland, Columbia, UCB and The North Face have some nice jackets which are light as well as warm (and some are waterproof too). Such jackets would cost around Rs 8000/- to Rs 12,000/-

2. Thermals or Woolen Vest and Long Johns. At least two pairs of these items of innerwear are required. Jockey and Lux Cozy are some brands which are selling these items for around Rs 1000/-

3. Leather or Woolen Gloves and muffler.

4. Two pairs of jeans/pants and shirts.

5. A couple of Sweat shirts/ T-shirts.

6. Underclothes, Socks and Hankies – as desired (recommended at least six sets)

7. Towels - 2

8. A pair of sports shoes/sneakers and a pair of slippers.

9. One Sleeping Bag. (Layered, synthetic or down filled)

10. Toiletries

11. Toilet Paper Rolls

 

 

   

 

Practice Ride III - Dehradun-Kotdwar-Dehradun

The third practice ride was the longest ride in the series as we covered 300 kms in 8 hours. We started off from Dehradun at 0900 hrs and proceeded to Kotdwar via Haridwar. Kotdwar is a city, a municipal corporation and a tehsil in the Pauri Garhwal district of Uttarakhand, India. It is the eighth-largest city in Uttrakhand. Its old name was "Khohdwar", which means the gateway of the river Khoh since it is located on the bank of river Khoh. 

We rode through the city and proceeded towards the road which leads to Jim Corbett National Park. After some time we came across a river in spate which was gushing through the road. There was a Forest Department Park nearby where we decided to have lunch and the ride back to Dehradun. Kotdwar was hot and humid and we were keen to leave for Dehradun as soon as we finished our lunch. Some pics of the day are as follows:

                                       The mandatory selfie at BSNL office, Dehradun

                                          At the point from where we turned back

                                                                   Butterflies Galore

                                       Whimsical Veterans contemplating the next move ?

                                                           At the park after lunch

                                      A view of the surroundings form the Forest Dept Park

                                 Sun burnt hands - a result of not using gloves while riding
 

Practice Ride II - Dehradun-Chakrata- Dehradun

We undertook the second practice ride on 15 July which was to proceed to Chakrata via Vikasnagar and return to Dehradun the same day. We covered a distance of 174 kms in 6 hours. Chakrata is small hill station at an altitude of 7000 ft above mean sea level. It is a picturesque destination frequented by many tourists who wish to enjoy the serene surroundings. Needless to say, it rained intermittently for most part of the journey. Following are some photos of the ride :

                                       A selfie clicked near the highway close to our colony

                                      Waiting for the landslide to be cleared near Chakrata

                                   Riders at the Chiri Miri Point (also known as Sunset Point)

                      The Whimsical Veterans at the Rock Edict of Emperor Ashoka at Kalsi

                                       Cattle Grazing on the meadow near Sunset Point

                                                                     Wild Daisies

First Practice Ride - Near Misses/Learning Points

1. Yield way to traffic coming up the hill (ie when you are going downhill) is one of the most important rules of hill driving. However, we often forget this rule and sometimes consequences can be disastrous. A couple of times when I was riding downhill (between Kempty and Yamuna Bridge) I barely had space enough to squeeze through the edge of the road and the oncoming vehicle. Should have slowed down rather than risk landing in the ditch between the road and the mountainside.

2. Between Yamuna Bridge and the place where we had lunch, a JCB was at work clearing the landslide rubble. I and Ravi were waiting for the road to be cleared or till we were signalled to proceed forth. Meanwhile Rakesh rode up and crossed the area when the JCB had dumped it's load. Taking a cue from his daredevilry, I ventured forth when the machine had dumped the second load. While I was crossing the JCB, it gave a sudden lurch and it's front portion (the dumper) was inches from my front wheel. Literally made it with the skin of my teeth.

3. Trekker drivers are the worst of the lot one can encounter in these areas who are usually drunk till their gills and drive very dangerously. They have to be given a wide berth when they are coming towards you. Had a couple of scary moments encountering these rogues.

4. Another important point is about puddles in the road after rains. Puddles have to be negotiated very slowly as their depth is unknown. I had rocketed over some of them which can result in a skid or fall.

Practice Ride I - Dehradun-Mussoorie-Kempty Fall-Yamuna Bridge-Dehradun

Practice rides are essential before embarking on any long ride. Some of the group members were handling a motorcycle after a long hiatus. Such rides are important to firm up the group dynamics and create an opportunity for better bonding among the group. Our proposed ride to Northern Ladakh would cover 3400 kms over a period of 18 days so going for practice rides would serve us well.

On 12 July 2021 we (members of the Whimsical Veterans group) embarked on our first practice ride which was to be the shortest and the route was mostly hilly. We covered a distance of 120 kms in 5 hours with a couple of breaks in between. The route to be followed was Dehradun-Mussoorie-Kempty Falls-Yamuna Bridge-Vikasnagar-Dehradun. We assembled near Max Hospital at 0900 hrs and started off for Mussoorie. After negotiating around 15 kms the heavens started pouring and the rain did not stop till the end of the ride. Some learning points were disseminated to the members of the group so that due caution could be exercised in future rides. Following are some pics of the said ride:

                                                         A selfie before the ride began

                                                          A short break after Kempty Fall

                                                         Another selfie at Yamuna Bridge

                                                          Wet guys at Yamuna Bridge

Whimsical Veterans

In March this year, I got a call from Col Rakesh Singh Sidhu, SM, who is settled in Dehradun and is my coursemate from OTS, Madras (now OTA, Chennai). He asked me whether I was interested in undertaking a motorcycle journey to Northern Ladakh including the Karakoram Pass. Some of the areas proposed to be visited were under Army control and he mooted the idea that we would seek approval from the Army /Govt authorities. I readily agreed to his proposal and in a short while two retired officers from the Indian Navy joined the group which we christened "Whimsical Veterans". So we are a group of 4 veterans at this time (two from Army and two from Navy). The group logo is as follows:

The loss of a friend is like that of a limb; time may heal the anguish of the wound, but the loss cannot be repaired. – Robert Southey

Balli – A Friend in Need and Deed

Capt Balvinder Singh (Balli), a dear friend of mine succumbed to post Covid 19 complications yesterday evening at the Base Hospital, Delhi Cantt. The sad news of his passing came like a bolt out of the blue and hit me deep in the gut. Having spoken to him a few days back and knowing that he had recovered from Covid, I have been in a state of denial and am yet to accept this reality.

Our association dates back to the time when we joined the Reserve Bank of India in Jan 1990 and got to know each other during our induction training at Chennai. Balli was a thorough gentleman and the most affable person I have ever met. A polite and kind hearted man who used to greet everyone with a smile. I do not recollect him ever losing his temper on anyone. He was always willing to lend a helping hand to anyone in need.

Balli was great at hosting impromptu parties at the drop of a hat and possessed the knack of livening up the proceedings with his extrovert nature, his flair for music and singing. Such meetings at either his residence, mine or at some other mutual friends’ place used to happen very frequently and we never tired of it. Those moments spent together will always be etched in my mind and are sure to brighten my mood on a gloomy day.

I am sure Balli must be regaling the angels in heaven with his amazing repertoire of songs and ditties.

Goodbye my friend, till we meet again down the road !

____________________________________________________________________________________

Some memories with Balli :

              L to R - Capt C.B.Gupta, Maj A.K.Moudgil. Self and Balli at RBI, New Delhi

                                                       Self, Capt A.K.Goyal and Balli

                          Capt Tapan Chakravorty, Capt A.K.Goyal, Self, Capt C.B.Gupta and Balli

                                                Me and Balli on his birthday - 28 Aug 2017

 

 

Motorcycle Story - 3 (Visit to Mussoorie)

On 09 April 2019, I undertook a trip to Mussoorie on my byke. I had been wanting to visit "The Queen of Hills" since a considerable period of time but couldn't do so as my trips to Dehradun were few and far between during my tenure at Muscat. This may be construed as a lame excuse, and rightly so, since Mussoorie is just 45 kms from my house in Dehradun. Anyway, I was visiting Mussoorie after more than 9 years and was looking forward to catch up with old friends and acquaintances.  

The total time taken to reach Mussoorie, which is at an elevation of 6000 ft above MSL, was 90 minutes, half of which was spent in getting out of the nightmarish traffic of Dehradun.  Negotiating the twists and turns of the familiar road, I was appalled to see that every turn which used to serve as a vantage point to admire the scenery earlier, was full of small makeshift cafes and fast food joints. The whole stretch has been commercialized which is a blot on the erstwhile scenic mountainside. On reaching Mussoorie I found the place full of tourists and vehicles causing jams on the road. A lot of construction (mostly unauthorized) has come up since my last visit making the place very congested. 

It saddened my heart to see the sorry state of the town which, in my childhood, was truly the Queen of Hills. With haphazard commercialization, migration from other parts of the state and a floating tourist population, the quaint and quiet little town I once knew has transformed itself into an ugly melting pot of cultures vibrating with a cacophony of raucous sounds which jarred me to the core. I wonder how punishing it would be to visit this place during peak season. 

Having gotten over the initial jolt, there was more bad news in store when I came to know a few old and familiar folks had passed away, some of them untimely. This was a grim reminder that all of us are mortals and will have to pass through the pearly gates when our time is up.

I went out of the town a bit to click photos of areas that are still unspoilt and resemble the Mussoorie of yesteryears. These and some other pics shot during the trip are as follows (click on the photo to enlarge) :

                                           View of Mussoorie from the midway point.

                                        View of Camel's Back Road (nearer ridge) and
                                           Landour/Sister Bazaar area (farther ridge).

                                             Zig Zag Road leading to Mussoorie

                                   View of MPG College from where I graduated in 1976.

                            The Woods are Lovely, Dark and Deep......view from Kempty Road.

                             View of the snow capped peaks of the Gharwal Himalayan Range.

                                         Selfie with my old friend Ramesh outside his shop.

Motorcycle Story - 2 (HSRP Obtained)

Confused with the title of this post ?? Well, HSRP stands for 'High Security Registration Plate' which is now mandatory instead of the fancy registration number plates which vehicles of yore used to flaunt. Since I had purchased my bike from Delhi and wanted to get it registered in Dehradun, the dealer had arranged a temporary number plate for me which was valid for one month. I had visited RTO office, Dehradun, on 11th March and paid the required registration amount after enquiring about the process to be followed. I would like to mention here that the whole exercise was a pleasant experience and the job was done in a very short time. There was no need to run around in circles and the staff were thoroughly professional and helpful in their approach. I did not see any touts in the vicinity of the office which was very, very surprising ! I recall vividly my earlier brushes with RTOs around the country where nothing would move unless you went through a tout and paid extra money to get the job done.

The same day I received an SMS informing me that my RC was under preparation and I could download the electronic version from the 'mParivahan' mobile app which I promptly did. So I got to know the registration number allotted to me on the same day itself. I had gone to Noida for a short while before Holi, so I could not follow up this issue till 26th March when I visited the RTO again. On enquiring about my RC, I was told that the same would be delivered after affixation of the HSRP. I paid Rs 250/- at the appropriate counter and was told to visit again on the 6th working day to have the number plate fixed. 

On 2nd April, I got my HSRP fitted by the approved contractor and received my RC. The number plate is made of aluminium, has a hologram, a laser etched nine digit code, embossed alphanumeric digits with hot stamped reflective sheeting etc, etc.  I will not dwell upon the utility and quality of the said HSRP over here. HSRP is supposed to have certain benefits besides imparting uniformity. There are a lot of arguments floating around online 'for' and 'against' this topic. I went for it since it is mandatory and the cost is nominal. The total time spent at the RTO office was around half an hour. Hats off to RTO, Dehradun !! 

Following are the pics of the bike with the new registration number :

                                                                   Front HSRP

                                                                    Rear HSRP

Motorcycle Story -1 (The First Long Ride)

On 06 March 2019 me and my elder son left Noida for Dehradun on our bykes at around 1100 hrs. This was my first long ride on the Interceptor which had clocked just 100 kms or so till that date. My son was riding his KTM Duke 390. I was just a wee bit jittery as I was embarking on a long ride after nearly 14 years (having sold off my Bullet Machismo in 2005) and being used to the old Bullet which had it's rear brake on the left side. I had ridden bykes in the interim period on a few occasions but never for long distances.

The dealer had advised me not to exceed 60 kmph till the first free service at 500 kms. I had resolved to do just that, much to the chagrin of my elder son, who was riding a high revving machine and this limit would be tough to follow. I advised him to go at his own pace and he could wait for me to catch up at intervals. He did not pay heed to this advice and kept pace with me. Just after leaving Noida it took me 15-20 minutes to get used to the chaotic rush of traffic on the so-called highway leading to Dehradun. It was only when we hit the toll road bypassing Meerut that the ride became enjoyable. We knew that the going was good only till the toll road ended short of Roorkee, so we took the Muzzafaragar - Saharanpur toll road which is also very good and thus avoided the bad areas.

We had one short break for lunch midway and one break at the 'Daat Kali Temple' before entering Dehradun for performing a 'puja' and seeking the blessings of Goddess Durga. It is customary for residents of Doon valley to visit this temple with their new vehicles and perform the said ritual. We reached our house in Central Hope Town, Dehradun at 1830 hrs owing to the speed restriction and the two breaks. The journey was enjoyable and my jitters were totally unfounded as I had no problems negotiating the good, the bad and the ugly traffic scenarios which unfolded in this 270 km ride. Following are some pics of the said ride:

About to Resume the Journey after lunch at Haldiram's

                                                'Puja' being performed by the Panditji

                                                         Completion of the rituals